Taking it in
There are days when you don’t even have to catch a wave to enjoy surfing. Today was one of them.
It began when I woke up at 7 without my alarm, usually I can’t get myself out of bed till 8 or 9 and by then the beach gets crowded. But for once I had gone to sleep just a little earlier and this made all the difference. Waking up without an alarm was win number one.
When I opened my eyes a strange glow peaked through my blinds. I realized it was sunny out and the birds were chirping. The end of June gloom was win number 2.
With the sun shining it was easy to get my things together quickly and strap my board to my car. I headed for seal beach almost forgetting to check the surf forecast before I left. Upon arrival the forecast was confirmed. The waves were beautiful, big enough to challenge me but easy enough to paddle through. Win number 3 was followed by the 4th win of the morning. I got to wear my new wetsuit with pink and purple stripes on the arms and legs. It looked sharp with my purple board.
Sitting in the line up I wasn’t worried about getting creamed by a wave, I got to think about nothing at all and take in the scenery. I watched the terns diving for fish just a few feet away. It was magical.
When a wave did come there wasn’t a lot of face to ride. The drop was nearly vertical even thought the waves were on the small side. I did manage to finally get a good drop towards the end.
Even though I didn’t stand up fully I got to spend some time with the ocean. That’s the best way to start the day.